Denis Culinary Tours

The Craft of the Cocktail So a gal walks into a bar . . . Or a restaurant.  And says to the bartender, “What’s special?”  He hands her an entire menu of what can only be called specialty drinks. Take specialty up a notch and you have the trend that’s been going for several years now as the “craft cocktail craze” continues unabated.  Almost every bar worth its hand-filled olives serves at least five or many, many more, riffs on the classic cocktail, usually devised by that bar’s enthusiastic mixologists.  Though the execution in restaurants is different from the best-known crafty bars (for example, Manifesto, Julep, the new Monarch, or P.S. Speakeasy ), the intent is the same:  a drink that is very special, very unique, very memorable. It’s no coincidence that rise of the craft cocktail somewhat parallels the rise of the artisan food movement with its emphasis on fresh, high quality ingredients –  but that cocktail could have more ingredients than ...

Hereford House’s quite excellent lunch menu! As a long-time resident of K.C. and its burbs, I thought I knew everything about Hereford House I needed to know.  Hand-cut steaks, four locations (east, west, north, and south) plus Pierpont’s in Union Station, great burgers (hand ground from their steak meat every day), good happy hours, and this year, sixty years old.  What I didn’t know about especially was their great lunch specials every day of week, like a 12 oz. ribeye for just $25 on Mondays or what turns out to be a pretty famous meatloaf on Thursdays.  On a recent lunch date with publisher Kathy Denis last week, we were treated to their newest steak – the Hereford special strip steak.  What makes this different is the fact that it’s “marinated” overnight – dried porcini mushrooms, salt, black and crushed red pepper, and a couple of other ingredients.  The result is the juiciest and most flavorful strip I’ve ever had – and I’m a ribeye girl....

More Than Happy Hour The other day I was in McCormick and Schmick’s having a happy hour lemon drop ($7.00) and contemplating what a great happy hour they have – voted #1 nationally in fact by USA Today .  Their scrumptious fish tacos and a full-size burger (each just $5) or their seared ahi tuna or coconut shrimp ($9) are definitely just a few of the reasons I like it there.  Oh, there’s also the fact you can get a martini or Manhattan for $4.50. But I also had dinner there very recently and it, too, was very fine.  Our party of five was in one of the more secluded booths and we could hear each other speak while using our indoor voices, more and more a rarity these days.  The food was . . . exceptional, every dish. I had the almond crusted Idaho trout, perfectly pan seared with a butternut squash orzo – which I hadn’t planned on finishing since I knew we were having dessert – but I ate it down to perfect plate shininess.  One person had a huge lob...

I want you to know I resist the idea of this article I’m writing.  It’s about stereotyping and generalizations.  And simplifications and categorizing and labeling.  And generations. Nonetheless, here goes: another article pitting Millennials versus Boomers.  Even if you’re not in one of those categories, I think you should read on – because restaurant life as we know it going to more and more reflect younger people’s tastes. Backing up and yet justifying my reluctance, The Center for Generational Kinetics says: “Generations exhibit similar characteristics – such as communication, shopping, and motivation preferences – because they experienced similar trends at approximately the same life stage and through similar channels (e.g., online, TV, mobile, etc.). Generation-shaping trends are most influential as people come of age, which means that members of a particular generation will develop and share similar values, beliefs, and expectations. It is important to rem...

More Bistro-ish.  Less Old-ish. It’s about the new atmosphere at André's Confiserie Suisse after their renovation. They wanted to “change everything without changing anything.” The Bolliers had already done a renovation back in 2014 of the front retail space and this summer they went to work on the back. The goal was to have an updated look but still retain the old world warmth of the former chalet. I think they definitely succeeded – new light wood floors, higher ceiling, no visual or closed off obstacles disguised as tall-backed booths and serving areas.  I checked out the place one late morning and it was clear it is a more inviting space – still seems friendly and you can hear someone else talk to you. Their Main Street Tearoom is really from the middle back, but you can sit up front, too. They’re open from 7 a.m. with lunch beginning four hours later. There are always two delicious choices which change daily plus their famous quiches. I buy their whole quic...

If you won’t believe me, believe Business Insider , a New-York-based international website which recently selected Chef Philip Quillec’s family restaurant, Café Provence , as one of the 100 best U.S. restaurants for the second time.  This award comes after several others, including Open Table’s annual assessment by its diners.  Although Philip attributes the success to everyone there, it’s clear he has made a difference since he became executive chef in 2008, returning after stints in France, Argentina, and Brazil.  Café Provence has always been a bit of an anomaly, nesting there in the Prairie Village Shopping Center – a truly French restaurant which has always embraced fresh ingredients including fish flown in daily.  And Chef Quillec’s journey has been anything but standard.  He started out in the kitchen of course, at the tender age of 13.  He didn’t especially want to be a chef, seeing all the hard work and long hours his father, Patrick, and u...

I’m So Excited NOW There’s a very cool event coming up on September 29 th and if you’re a foodie and /or you like jazz, you should get your ticket NOW.  It’s the inaugural SupperClub 2017 , sponsored by Les Dames d’Escoffier, the Kansas City Jazz Ambassadors, and the American Restaurant.  I know you are familiar with at least one of the three – the now premier event space in Kansas City.   The other two are philanthropic organizations, one women professionals in the culinary professions and the other jazz supporters, who are combining to provide scholarships in those respective vocations.  Anyway, what’s even more cool to attendees are the others who are contributing their skills – I just have to list them:  chefs Debbie Gold ( The American ), Celina Tio ( the Belfry ), Renee Kelly ( Harvest ), Theresia Oto (The Monarch Club ), Katee McLean ( Krokstrom Klubb ), Remy Ayesh ( Café Sebastienne ),  Alison Reed ( JCCC ) ; mixologists Julie Ohno from t...

Today I’m writing about something I’ve not attended so I’m basing this on (very reliable) hearsay and the past success of this on-going event.  I’m talking about the Gaslight Grill in Leawood -- you know, that’s the place where they have live jazz music five nights a week and a great happy hour Sunday through Friday, a cool bar and a lovely patio. Specifically, what I’m talking about is their monthly special, where Chef Michael Hall does, really, whatever strikes his creative fancy and what’s fresh and delish.  He’s fixed wild boar and wagyu ribeye and Dover sole (VERY unusual here) and does all kinds of unique interpretations – and this special dish is offered along with their 28 or so entrées. For August, it’s a fresh sockeye salmon which began last week and will continue as long as the fish are jumping and immediately flown to the restaurant.  And next month, as Fall is soon upon us (gasp), Chef Hall has committed to individually sized beef Wellingtons. I love...

That title above is a tagline and it’s pretty darn perfect.  About a month ago, I went to a rosé tasting at Tannin’s Wine Bar and Kitchen on 15 th and Walnut and tasted about five, seven, ten, who knows? different varietals of my favorite summer drink.  Yes, of course, small sips only.  Then, this week, I went there for one of the Restaurant Guide’s Dine-Arounds which introduces hotel professionals to various restaurants in town.  Tannin’s has been around since 2011 and the wine choices, and their knowledge about those wines, has always been excellent.   What I was reminded of, both times, is how good their food can be, too.  Their appetizers are varied and fresh.  We had three different small plates that second night – a bruschetta with grilled bread, heirloom tomatoes on garlic basil spread, an ahi tuna dish with avocado and red cabbage spicy slaw, and a pork tenderloin on brown rice with buttered beans, tender-crisp carrot and cucumb...

A Surprising Experience  The other day, right around my favorite time (yes, that would be happy hour time), I wandered into Fogo de Chao on the Plaza. I wasn’t looking for the full Brazilian churrasco experience but I did want a little something . . . and a drink. So it was a double-nice surprise when some complimentary appetizers came with my drink. Beers and bites are available for $4 and their Brazilian inspired cocktails are $8 – so of course, I was forced to order a caipirinha (cachaça, which is sorta like white rum, limes, cane sugar).  In talking with the bartender, I found out that during lunch, you can get their Market Table and Fiojoada Bar for just $15 – about the same price as any nice lunch on the Plaza. It’s $27 at dinner time and both include a huge selection of come-back-as-much-as-you-want “sides” – some of which seemed like main course alternatives to me. There are the soups, salads, charcuterie with all kinds of meats and cheeses, smoked salmon –...

This week I attended a fabulous dinner at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar and it has occurred to me that I’m not doing this kind of thing often enough. This was called “The Longest Day to Drink Rose” and six different rosés were featured. Honestly, each one was better than the last, or next, and all the food, prepared by six chefs with each in charge of one, was better than the last or next. Or something. It was a fun evening – great food, drink, and I met some very cool people, too.  Most of our better restaurants do an occasional wine or beer dinner or just what’s billed as a special evening. Usually, it’s financially a good deal because everyone cooking, pouring, or serving is hyped to do their very, very best.  Here are five things to know:  Prior:  1. When you make your reservation, be sure to confirm date, time, and whether it’s individual tables or group seating. If it’s group, and you want to be seated with your friends, be sure to tell them. ...

One Great Dish -- It’s Kimchi for Me!  Back in May, I talked with Executive Chef Brandon Winn of Webster House . He’s so personable it made my blog easy to write. I asked him to give us a favorite dish that even I could make, and he suggested kimchi. I must admit I’ve only ever had kimchi in Korean restaurants, where the often spicy, pickled or fermented cabbage, onions, and assorted veggies mixture is a staple. I’ve never thought of making it myself. Chef Winn says it’s easy.   He said, “Kimchi is something that I have been playing around with for the last year for a myriad of reasons. First and foremost, it is delicious, ever evolving and complex. Secondly, there are a large handful of health benefits to fermented foods (i.e., yogurt) that have extreme impacts on the body, how it processes food, breaks down nutrients and maintains a healthy homeostasis. It provides a high level of cruciferous vegetables which aid in keeping the body’s PH levels intact.”...

Let’s go back: Twenty years ago, the Kansas City restaurant world was a different place.  The Plaza had many local restaurants while downtown really wasn’t an eating destination other than daytime. The Power and Light District, the Sprint Center, the Kauffman weren’t around. The Crossroads basically didn’t exist either.  Zona Rosa wasn’t developed until 2004.  Prairiefire followed ten years later when 135th wasn’t too far South for many to even contemplate.  If you were asked back then about our restaurants, you’d probably mention only steak and barbeque – not sure we could be called a “restaurant town” like we are today. A restaurant town, according to Charles Ferruzza, acclaimed food critic here who is writing a book about “old” KC and its eateries, means that our metro area has “a lively, varied and interesting selection of independently-operated restaurants, upscale chain restaurants, and ethnic dining that go beyond the traditional.”  We did certainly ha...