Denis Culinary Tours

New and Crafty Call me parochial, call me insular, call me narrow, but since I don’t live out there, going south is sometimes a bit of a trial.   So I’m thrilled when something opens out there that’s worthy of comment.   That’s the newest restaurant, the Brass Onion , the concept developed by Brancato Family Catering with whom you may already be familiar.   This Prairiefire place was/is somewhat of revelation. I only have space today to talk about their cocktails.   Fortunately, that’s one of my favorite topics. Besides an extensive list of the usual (and not so usual) beer and wine suspects, they have a program where they age their booze in 10-liter oak barrels for 40 days.   These rotate and when you go, ask for what’s special for that day.   They make their own shrubs and syrups, too and you’ll be impressed by the variety at this impressive bar.   If you’re a real martini fan (as opposed to a cosmo or lemon drop fan), you should ...

What’s Your Favorite Restaurant? I get asked that a lot.  So does every food writer, everyone who works for a publisher like the Restaurant Guide, every chef.  It’s a great dinner topic for a lagging conversation (even if everyone isn’t “into” food).  But let me say up front, “I hate this question!” Since you asked, let me tell you why.  Too many variables.  Best special occasion place?  Are you talking best burger ever?  Fall back place cuz it’s always consistent?  Cheap but good?  Best ever in your entire life?   So many choices, so many criteria.  Maybe it’s just the last place I remember where I had a really good time. But if I do answer and the next question is, “What’d ya have?” then I REALLY hate this question.  Three days after one sublime experience and one good and one not-so-great, it’s hard to remember specifics.  Maybe it’s a great treatment of something I especially like.  Maybe the dr...

One thing I like and appreciate about the restaurant industry is that it is possible to rise from dishwasher to chef to even owner over a period of time.   While Matt Barnes, Executive Chef of Pierpont’s , didn’t exactly do that, he did begin 13 years ago as a chef’s apprentice and through his hard work, attention to detail, creativity and he added, luck, he managed to, as he put it, “Work my way up for a great company in a great job.” Matt and I sat in the iconic bar the other day, drinkless alas but not deliberately as part of my less drink regimen.   We talked about his position, his life, and his restaurant – which he regards as too hidden away to be a KC regulars’ spot.   I have to say, I think Pierpont’s has the most beautiful bar in town, and as I thoroughly perused the happy hour and other menus, I concluded, like most of Kansas City should, that I ought to come here more often. I asked him what was the hardest chunk of his work and he said he thrives o...