Ragland Road Irish Pub in the Power and Light district is the most recent place to fall under the spell of what I’m learning is a trend of cuisine confusion. The restaurant is gorgeous to behold, although its sheer size betrays some of the intimacy of a real Irish pub. It has an excellent beer selection and what appears to be a correctly inspired menu until the final result arrives.
I have lamented over the recent gimmicky trend of restaurants to try to dress up food that is better left alone. I ordered fish and chips, a bellweather for Irish food if one ever existed. I received some sort of fish sculpture with a couple of confused sauces and a creative and, frankly, useful chip presentation. If only the fish came the same way.
Fish and chips is a lovable dish from the U.K., one of the few palatable native cuisines of that area of the world (and I am an anglophile, I drive an English car, wear English clothing, and am an intolerable Doctor Who fan). I expect it to be served in a simple yet delicious manner. This complicated thing was lost on me, as it appeared completely out of step wit h the authentic feel of the rest of the place. In addition, despite being pretty, the fish was greasy and tasted flat, as if all the effort was placed on the presentation and not enough on the preparation.
My service was fine, if not rememberable.
Ragland Road Irish Pub is a nice idea. Irish Pubs often are, but if one is going to open one it should be consistent. Ragland Road should give up the frilly presentation and serve honest food, honestly presented.