Denis Culinary Tours

A couple weeks ago I talked with Executive Chef Matt Barnes at Pierpont’s.   You can read that interview here , should you so wish. Chef Barnes said he cooks simply at home due to time constraints and “selective” diners. This man is busy!   So when I asked him for a recipe, he said the squash gratin below is pretty simple, always good, and can make anyone look like a great cook.   What’s a gratin you ask?  A gratin is a great example of something that sounds better when you call it that. It basically means a browned crust, usually with some kind of cheese.   But what I immediately noticed about this recipe that about two pounds of squash, not that much, requires one quart of heavy (whipping in my mind) cream!   And garlic.   So eating your veggie becomes a very happy occasion.   Try this, take a pic, and send to me!   Better yet, invite me to share it. INGREDIENT PREPARATION 2oz Butter ...

New and Crafty Call me parochial, call me insular, call me narrow, but since I don’t live out there, going south is sometimes a bit of a trial.   So I’m thrilled when something opens out there that’s worthy of comment.   That’s the newest restaurant, the Brass Onion , the concept developed by Brancato Family Catering with whom you may already be familiar.   This Prairiefire place was/is somewhat of revelation. I only have space today to talk about their cocktails.   Fortunately, that’s one of my favorite topics. Besides an extensive list of the usual (and not so usual) beer and wine suspects, they have a program where they age their booze in 10-liter oak barrels for 40 days.   These rotate and when you go, ask for what’s special for that day.   They make their own shrubs and syrups, too and you’ll be impressed by the variety at this impressive bar.   If you’re a real martini fan (as opposed to a cosmo or lemon drop fan), you should ...

What’s Your Favorite Restaurant? I get asked that a lot.  So does every food writer, everyone who works for a publisher like the Restaurant Guide, every chef.  It’s a great dinner topic for a lagging conversation (even if everyone isn’t “into” food).  But let me say up front, “I hate this question!” Since you asked, let me tell you why.  Too many variables.  Best special occasion place?  Are you talking best burger ever?  Fall back place cuz it’s always consistent?  Cheap but good?  Best ever in your entire life?   So many choices, so many criteria.  Maybe it’s just the last place I remember where I had a really good time. But if I do answer and the next question is, “What’d ya have?” then I REALLY hate this question.  Three days after one sublime experience and one good and one not-so-great, it’s hard to remember specifics.  Maybe it’s a great treatment of something I especially like.  Maybe the dr...

One thing I like and appreciate about the restaurant industry is that it is possible to rise from dishwasher to chef to even owner over a period of time.   While Matt Barnes, Executive Chef of Pierpont’s , didn’t exactly do that, he did begin 13 years ago as a chef’s apprentice and through his hard work, attention to detail, creativity and he added, luck, he managed to, as he put it, “Work my way up for a great company in a great job.” Matt and I sat in the iconic bar the other day, drinkless alas but not deliberately as part of my less drink regimen.   We talked about his position, his life, and his restaurant – which he regards as too hidden away to be a KC regulars’ spot.   I have to say, I think Pierpont’s has the most beautiful bar in town, and as I thoroughly perused the happy hour and other menus, I concluded, like most of Kansas City should, that I ought to come here more often. I asked him what was the hardest chunk of his work and he said he thrives o...

Thai One On Kansas City, our oh so international home, is lucky to have a number of Thai restaurants.   You may not be aware that one of the very first was the original Thai Place on 87 th Street in old-ish Overland Park back in 1991.   That one was founded by Ann Liberda (still there, though it has a different owner now) but Ann and her family, having begun way back in 1987, are probably the best known Thai restaurateurs in Kansas City. So you’re definitely going to want to try their latest endeavor.   It’s Waldo Thai Place and Ann has worked with son Ted and daughter-in-law Pam to open their newest on 85 th and Wornall.   After a soft opening a few weeks ago, they’re now fully open, including cocktail service.   You’ll see some favorites and some new things, too and items will rotate according to what’s in season.   They’ll even accommodate special requests.   The food all looks amazing—and it is, according to the one dish I tried -- ...

When Dickens’ Oliver Twist said, “Please sir, I want more,” he was starving.  Restaurants today often hear a variation of this, but it has nothing to do with starving.   Instead, it’s about their generosity to all the many fund raisers for noble causes going on in this town all year long.   I’ve been thinking about this, because as part of Les Dames d’Escoffier’s and Jazz Ambassadors SupperClub 2018 , on September 14 th , (yes, small plug) we’ve been asking several of our favorites for these donations (like GaslightGrill which has both dinner AND jazz), about different ways to raise money.  That took me to Bd’sMongolian Grill which is pretty much a win/win as a fund-raiser.   They have a Benefit Night which, once you’ve set it up there, you invite your supporters to visit the restaurant during a specific day and time and a percentage goes back to the cause.   Or you can have two guest grillers who face off to your supporters who’ve bought a ticket ...