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Herb Crusted Venison Loin

One Great Dish VII:  As told by Martin Heuser

By Chris Becicka

Chef Martin Heuser at Affäre is known for, among other dishes, his savory meats of all kinds, from sausages to bison, usually with a new German flair.  So when I received this recipe, there were two things I thought of immediately.  The hardest one is, not being a hunter like he is, where does one get venison? Turns out McGonigle’s often has it, or will order for you, as will several of the local butchers around town. 

The second thing:  like all great chefs, he weighs rather than cups.  But I’ve put both in so you don’t have to translate. He tells me this is a simple recipe, one even I could probably do.  I think it’d be perfect this fall!

Herb Crusted Venison Loin (printed version)

Herb crust:
250 g butter (soft-room temperature) [1 c. butter]
1 egg
1 yolk
100 g mie de pain (bread crumbs from white bread without crust) [2 cups]
1 tablespoon each of finely chopped rosemary, thyme, parsley and chives

Whip butter in mixer to pomade stage (white and fluffy), add eggs, herbs and mie de pain. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Season venison with salt and pepper. Sear venison loin in hot frying pan with oil for about 3 minutes on both sides. Remove meat and cover with the herb crust, about 3/8 inch thick. Bake at 400ᴼF until the crust is golden brown (about 5-8 minutes). Let the meat rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing it

This meat goes well with a wild mushroom medley or a blueberry gastrique.

Blueberry gastrique:
3.5 oz sugar [1/2 cup]
2 oz red wine vinegar [1/4 cup]
1/2 cup frozen or fresh blueberries
Caramelize sugar, deglaze with vinegar. Add blueberries and let it cook until blueberries are broken down to a slightly syrupy consistency.

Despite the fact venison is usually a stronger flavored and tougher meat, it also occurs to me this recipe might work on a pork loin.  Or, there’s always the option of just going to Affäre and letting him fix it for me!  And if you’d like to know more about Chef Heuser, check him out in my earlier post.

1911 Main street 
Kansas City, MO 64108 
Ph. 816-298-6182  

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