Talking with Ken Baker
My last heart-to-heart was a few months
ago with Celina Tio of Julian, Collection,
and The Belfry. The other day I got
to spend a little quality time with Ken Baker, Proprietor and Chef at Pachamama’s
in Lawrence. I love talking with
professionals like him who are articulate, interesting and fun, all at the same
time.
First, if you’ve not been to this shiny
restaurant for a while, hike on back.
It’s got a very cool vibe (how much does that term age me?) and an
expanded (Star) Bar and outdoor dining area, should we ever be able to eat
outside again. Their happy hour with
specials every night is worth the trip alone.
But enough of that. I wanted to know about the man wearing the
apron. Turns out he started his own catering business in high school. He was mostly inspired by a neighbor in the
food industry from Africa who loved to cook – and gave Ken his first set of
knives. After graduating from KU (in
political science), graduating from the California Culinary Academy, stints in
New Orleans, Australia, New Zealand, Teller’s in Lawrence, and Pachamama’s, he
bought the restaurant in 2002. The restaurant moved and certainly reincarnated
itself much more glamorously in 2006 to its current location on
Massachusetts.
He (mostly) loves being a chef and
owner. He told me cheffing is a matter of “being able to create with hands and
mind. It’s instant satisfaction – we get
results and feedback right away, not six months later in a performance review. I also know that people don’t work for me,
they work for everyone who walks in door.”
I like the fact that you can eat here
inexpensively, or not. Their burger at
happy hour is terrific. Bar food choices
are plentiful. You can also be very adventurous
– goat, rabbit, duck, homemade sausage.
Beautiful food; hearty food; all kinds.
Ken likes his specials, especially, and regulars agree with him.
Finally, I asked Ken what he’d say if
his now six-year-old son eventually said he’d like to be a chef just like
dad. “Get your feet wet. Try the business. It’s really hard work. Terrible hours. Few holidays.
Back and feet issues. But the immediacy of your work can be really
rewarding. And it’s so creative. I love that.”
Me, too.
Pachamama's
800 New Hampshire, Lawrence, KS 66044
One block east of Massachusetts on 8th Street
785-841-0990
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