The Bagel Wars . . . Or What’s a New York Bagel?

Here in Kansas City, you might not be aware of the bagel controversy that’s raged for years. OK, rage may be an exaggeration. It’s been primarily the conflict between the Montreal and the New York bagel. In the Midwest, it’s been more about a “regular” bagel, the kind we’ve become accustomed to at Einstein’s and Panera’s, or the New York bagel that’s been introduced here recently by Meshuggah Bagels, first on 39th Street in a darling gray house set off the road by its parking. 

Everyone knows the bagel came to us via eastern European Jewish emigrants who replicated this staple in their new country beginning in the 1800’s. The huge variety of flavors now available came later.  
The differences are in the size, the crust, and the cooking method. I’ll start with the one I’ve never had: the Montreal bagel. This is smaller though with a larger hole, thinner, sweeter because of its added malt and being first boiled in honey sweetened water, denser, and must be baked in a wood fired oven at high temperature. I read that there are two predominant varieties: poppy seed or sesame seed. 

The more common (for us) bagel, is proofed for at least 12 hours and then is baked in a steam injected oven. It’s typically fatter, fluffier, bigger, than the New York bagel. At Meshuggah (which means crazy in Yiddish for those who don’t know), the bagel is crusty – you have to have teeth – the inside is soft-ish but not doughy, and it comes in a gob of flavors (sweet, savory, and/or seedy variations) and it’s been boiled, as it should be. They have a variety of sandwiches as well which, because the bagel is not so thick, you can get into your mouth. 

Owners Pete and Janna Linde like to say they are bringing New York-style kosher bagels to Kansas City one bagel at a time. If you’ve not tried one, you should. Lots of us have and wanted more. That’s why they’re soon opening two more stores at 105th and Metcalf and at Liberty Commons on-35 and 152 Highway. Meshuggah is much more than a band and you’d be meshuggah if you didn’t try these New York bagels.

Tell us what you think!